Ferry Point Park

Ferry Point Park in the Throgs Neck neighborhood of the Bronx is named for the ferries that used to traverse the waters between Queens and the Bronx. It's a nice bit of synchronicity, then, that the latest addition to the 21st-century NYC Ferry network is an extension of the Soundview line to a dock right here.

Today's ferry takes you north along the Harlem River, past populated Roosevelt Island, scenic Randalls Island with its athletic fields and urban farm, uninhabited North Brother Island and South Brother Island (pictured below), and Rikers Island with its sprawl of jails.

North Brother Island

South Brother Island

Then it motors eastward through the crooked East River, under the flight path of the planes landing at Laguardia Airport (also in sight), until the Bronx-Whitestone Bridge looms overhead and the final landing is reached.

And just like that: Welcome to the Bronx.

But where to go first? Randomly deciding, we turned right, toward the bridge.

This turned out to be the picturesque – and desolate – end of the park.

Worn stairways lead up to a fence behind which cricket players labored under the blaring sun (we got a better look at them later).

Continuing toward the bridge, the gravel path parallels a stretch of sandy, stony, debris-strewn beach.

The towers of Manhattan lie sprinkled in a line in the distance.

Away from the water a patch of forest rises.

As we approached the bridge, it looked like the end of the line.

But up ahead we encountered a lone man fishing, who told us we could skirt the fence and continue past the bridge.

Sure enough, a wider stretch of beach opened, with several more fisherfolk at work.

This, finally, was the last accessible stretch of coastline in this direction. So we reversed course back toward the dock, and then hiked up through some trees. There we found the cricket field.

The paved path heads north alongside Westchester Creek. Westchester Creek is a tidal inlet of the East River that runs northward, narrows, and then disappears near Herbert H. Lehman High School. In earlier times the creek extended further north; Westchester Square, the first permanent European settlement in the Bronx, is said to have been founded at the then-head of the creek. Westchester Square is still the name of a neighborhood there.

Ferry Point Park, though, abuts the waterway's mouth, where it's far wider than what one normally thinks of as a "creek." On a hot day, the water looks appealing. But best leave the swimming to the ducks.

On the open fields along this more heavily used part of the park, cricket gives way to soccer, the dominant language is Spanish, and the dominant moods are "party" and "family."

The non-sports action was in the field, by the parking lot, and by the water.

What looked like some sort of closed-up bandstand stood empty. But it's not a bandstand. It is, The City reported, NYC's "most expensive park bathroom ever," constructed over 12 years at a cost of $4.7 million – a cost that City Council Member Joe Borelli described in a most interesting formulation as "borderline astronomical."

Other dominant moods: "beach." And blowing bubbles.

Ferry Point Park is easily big enough to find solitude, though, should that be your desire.

Either way, the park can be enjoyed at minimal or zero cost, whether you drive, cycle, scoot, skate, or sail in as we did.

The same can't be said of the adjoining public golf course, completed about 10 years ago on a former landfill site and recently renamed Bally's Golf Links as part of New York City's divestiture of connections to a certain real estate demagogue. The first part of the park, which opened as such in 1941, got an upgrade when the golf course opened.

However unfortunate the course's former association with Donald Trump, it was "inspired by the rolling hills of Scotland and designed by golf legend Jack Nicklaus," according to the Parks Department website.

But wait a minute, you say. Isn't Bally's a gambling company?

Bingo! Bally's hopes, as reported by the Bronx Times, "to build an integrated resort that combines the existing golf course with a first-class hotel and spa, banquet and events center, and a new gaming facility" that would occupy a part of the current golfing grounds outside the course itself. Stay tuned.

The website also states that including the golf course, Ferry Point Park is about half the size of Central Park. Not too shabby.

In May the park hosted the Bronx County Fair, which included a carnival ride called Alien Abduction.

"It’s pretty crowded, a little unorganized," raved one Fair attendee, who had brought her five-year-old son.

All photos © Oren Hope except where noted