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Monday, July 15, 2024

Spring Street Park

There's a large triangle at Spring Street and Sixth Avenue that I always think of as Christmas Tree Park because years ago a Christmas tree vendor would set up shop there. Once called, variously, Soho Square and Hudson Square Plaza, in 2018 it reopened after a $5.5 million renovation under the name Spring Street Park.

As most New Yorkers know, Sixth Avenue in Manhattan has two names. In 1945 the city, under Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia, designated the busy thoroughfare "Avenue of the Americas," "to honor pan-American ideals and principles" and perhaps in recognition of the selection of New York City as the home of the United Nations.

The name never totally caught on; some buildings and businesses use it, others don't. But either way, Spring Street Park houses one of six statues of Latin American heroes erected along the Avenue.

Here, then, is a backlit General José Artigas (1764-1850), the Uruguayan independence hero.

Spring Street Park, Soho, Manhattan, New York City parks

The original cast of the statue, by José Luis Zorrilla de San Martín (1891-1975), has stood in Montevideo for the past 75 years.

Facing north, toward the wide end of the triangle:

Spring Street Park, Soho, Manhattan, New York City parks

And facing south:

Spring Street Park, Soho, Manhattan, New York City parks

The unusual backless benches (with under-bench lighting) and squarish metal swivel chairs are interesting features.

Spring Street Park, Soho, Manhattan, New York City parks
Spring Street Park, Soho, Manhattan, New York City parks

Another are the "moonlighting" lamps, atop tall posts, intended to create a moonlight effect in the light and shadows on the ground.

Spring Street Park, Soho, Manhattan, New York City parks

Plain old London plane trees, among the thousands throughout the city, dominate the canopy, but not exclusively.

Spring Street Park, Soho, Manhattan, New York City parks
Spring Street Park, Soho, Manhattan, New York City parks

The renovation also included, according to DNAInfo, "anti-flooding infrastructure allowing the absorption of 1,140 percent more storm water."

My reason for walking through Spring Street Park is almost always because it's just around the corner from HERE Arts Center, where I've seen many shows (including some great puppet theater) over the years. But if puppets aren't your bag, maybe you're in the market for a Ducati racing motorcycle.

Spring Street Park, Soho, Manhattan, New York City parks

Where better to race noisy bikes, after all, than down Avenue of the Americas with its verdant parks and wide-open lanes?

Spring Street Park, Soho, Manhattan, New York City parks

I'm kidding, of course. But a walk along lower Sixth Avenue repays the urban adventurer seeking a bit of respite from the city's craziness.

park odyssey 300

All photos © Oren Hope except where noted

Tuesday, July 9, 2024

Ferry Point Park

Ferry Point Park in the Throgs Neck neighborhood of the Bronx is named for the ferries that used to traverse the waters between Queens and the Bronx. It's a nice bit of synchronicity, then, that the latest addition to the 21st-century NYC Ferry network is an extension of the Soundview line to a dock right here.

Today's ferry takes you north along the Harlem River, past populated Roosevelt Island, scenic Randalls Island with its athletic fields and urban farm, uninhabited North Brother Island and South Brother Island (pictured below), and Rikers Island with its sprawl of jails.

North Brother Island, New York City
North Brother Island
South Brother Island, New York City
South Brother Island

Then it motors eastward through the crooked East River, under the flight path of the planes landing at Laguardia Airport (also in sight), until the Bronx-Whitestone Bridge looms overhead and the final landing is reached.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

And just like that: Welcome to the Bronx.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

But where to go first? Randomly deciding, we turned right, toward the bridge.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

This turned out to be the picturesque – and desolate – end of the park.

Worn stairways lead up to a fence behind which cricket players labored under the blaring sun (we got a better look at them later).

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

Continuing toward the bridge, the gravel path parallels a stretch of sandy, stony, debris-strewn beach.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

The towers of Manhattan lie sprinkled in a line in the distance.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

Away from the water a patch of forest rises.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

As we approached the bridge, it looked like the end of the line.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

But up ahead we encountered a lone man fishing, who told us we could skirt the fence and continue past the bridge.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

Sure enough, a wider stretch of beach opened, with several more fisherfolk at work.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

This, finally, was the last accessible stretch of coastline in this direction. So we reversed course back toward the dock, and then hiked up through some trees. There we found the cricket field.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

The paved path heads north alongside Westchester Creek. Westchester Creek is a tidal inlet of the East River that runs northward, narrows, and then disappears near Herbert H. Lehman High School. In earlier times the creek extended further north; Westchester Square, the first permanent European settlement in the Bronx, is said to have been founded at the then-head of the creek. Westchester Square is still the name of a neighborhood there.

Ferry Point Park, though, abuts the waterway's mouth, where it's far wider than what one normally thinks of as a "creek." On a hot day, the water looks appealing. But best leave the swimming to the ducks.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

On the open fields along this more heavily used part of the park, cricket gives way to soccer, the dominant language is Spanish, and the dominant moods are "party" and "family."

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

The non-sports action was in the field, by the parking lot, and by the water.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

What looked like some sort of closed-up bandstand stood empty. But it's not a bandstand. It is, The City reported, NYC's "most expensive park bathroom ever," constructed over 12 years at a cost of $4.7 million – a cost that City Council Member Joe Borelli described in a most interesting formulation as "borderline astronomical."

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

Other dominant moods: "beach." And blowing bubbles.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks
Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

Ferry Point Park is easily big enough to find solitude, though, should that be your desire.

Ferry Point Park, Bronx, New York City parks

Either way, the park can be enjoyed at minimal or zero cost, whether you drive, cycle, scoot, skate, or sail in as we did.

The same can't be said of the adjoining public golf course, completed about 10 years ago on a former landfill site and recently renamed Bally's Golf Links as part of New York City's divestiture of connections to a certain real estate demagogue. The first part of the park, which opened as such in 1941, got an upgrade when the golf course opened.

Jack Nicklaus - DPLA - 01f5e55a030420853f1076d9d59e28c7

However unfortunate the course's former association with Donald Trump, it was "inspired by the rolling hills of Scotland and designed by golf legend Jack Nicklaus," according to the Parks Department website.

But wait a minute, you say. Isn't Bally's a gambling company?

Bingo! Bally's hopes, as reported by the Bronx Times, "to build an integrated resort that combines the existing golf course with a first-class hotel and spa, banquet and events center, and a new gaming facility" that would occupy a part of the current golfing grounds outside the course itself. Stay tuned.

The website also states that including the golf course, Ferry Point Park is about half the size of Central Park. Not too shabby.

In May the park hosted the Bronx County Fair, which included a carnival ride called Alien Abduction.

"It’s pretty crowded, a little unorganized," raved one Fair attendee, who had brought her five-year-old son.

park odyssey 300

All photos © Oren Hope except where noted

Monday, May 27, 2024

Marsha P. Johnson State Park

The site of an old marine and shortline rail terminal on the East River, at the edge of Williamsburg, Brooklyn, became a state park in 2007. Thirteen years later the state renamed East River State Park in honor of transgender activist Marsha P. Johnson.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

But there's been a lot of change here besides the name. An extremely outdated description at nyctourism.com says this: "East River State Park, otherwise known as the Williamsburg Waterfront, is not fancy: stage, concrete, water...Families can relax amongst historic rail yard remnants, and in the summer, take in family-friendly music and film series."

That doesn't remotely describe today's Marsha P. Johnson State Park, which abuts the unremarkable sports fields of Bushwick Inlet Park. It has some of the fancy trappings that go with our age of reckless real estate development and gentrification, but also exudes a neighborhood-y feel.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

The big benefit of a park in this location is, of course, the waterfront.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

In the upper left of the photo above there's a seaplane, on the way to Boston perhaps.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks
Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks
Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

Waterfront aside, there's space here for both family fun and sleepy romance.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks
Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

Remnants of the site's industrial past flowed together with spring flowers and chalked whimsy on a mid-May visit.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks
Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

A little wooden train perhaps is meant to suggest the short trains that ran here from the waterfront to the lot or street where cargo could be taken up by vehicles for delivery or processing.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

Jumbles of stones make good play spaces.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks
Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

There's fun – and relaxation opportunities – aplenty in this quiet park.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks
Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

The park's renaming occurred under the Andrew Cuomo administration in 2020. Signage here will tell you that Marsha P. Johnson (1945-1992) was a "Black gay and trans liberation activist, drag queen performer, actress, and sex worker [who]...struggled with mental illness" and lived with HIV/AIDS.

She "was known in the West Village for her charisma, joyfulness, and generosity, while living against great odds...Many called her a saint: Saint Marsha."

After the Stonewall uprising, where she was present, she "moved to the forefront of the Gay Liberation Movement." The "P" in her name, we are told, stood for a motto of hers, "Pay it no mind," which is written over her park's main entrance on Kent Ave.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

Her body was found in the Hudson River in July of 1992. Uncertainty lingers over whether her death was a suicide or murder.

In recent years New York City has acted to belatedly honor African Americans by naming parks for them. New York State has taken steps in that direction too, and in this case with an African American who was also part of the LGBTQ+ community.

Along the same lines, In March 2024 present governor Kathy Hochul issued a proclamation declaring a Transgender Day of Visibility.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

Netflix released a documentary about Johnson in 2017.

Marsha P. Johnson
Hank O'Neal, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Marsha P. Johnson State Park carries only remnants of the site's industrial/commercial past, but history lives on all around Brooklyn. Consider these old stable doors on a nearby street.

Marsha P. Johnson State Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York City parks

And history is made by all kinds of people. Case in point: Marsha P. Johnson State Park.

park odyssey 300

All photos © Oren Hope except where noted